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13019_story Photo by Tourism PEI / John Sylvester

Photo by Tourism PEI / John Sylvester

Canadian Destination: Charlottetown Biking

By Charles Mandel - Published June 8, 2010

Prince Edward Island might be tiny, but cycling is a large part of life on the island. Its size is part of its charm: you can nip out on a hard road bike ride along the coast and still be home in time for lunch. Just how tough is the road biking? Stiff enough that the international women’s tour held three-day stage races a couple of times on PEI, proving the gentle island (as provincial tourism has dubbed it) isn’t so gentle after all.

The Argyle Shore offers plenty of long ocean views and more than a few punishing hills. Depending on how long you want to make the ride, you can loop out around Rocky Point, taking in the achingly beautiful hill and water scenery through Cumberland. Just watch the roads. They can be a little rough at points, and the occasional dog will test your sprint.

The island isn’t just about road biking. Mountain bikers congregate at Brookvale Provincial  Ski Park, a hilly and fast cross-country course that annually plays host to the Red Mud Mayhem Mountain Bike Race. Roots and rocks ensure PEI mountain biking is surprisingly challenging, but Brookvale has the added attraction of flow and speed.

DETAILS

Location

For the Argyle Shore, head west on Highway One, crossing the North River Causeway and turn left onto York Point Road. Turn onto Ferry Road and head over to Dunedin. Follow Dunedin Road to Long Creek. At this point, you head back east out toward Rocky Point. Circle the point and continue through Cumberland and Nine Mile Creek to Rice Point, Canoe Cove and out along the Argyle Shore to Desable. You will end up back at Highway One. Follow it through Bonshaw, Churchill and New Haven to town. Go find a pub and have a beer. You deserve it.

If you’re heading to Brookvale, load up your car with mountain bike gear and drive up across North River and turn right onto Warren Grove Road and then left onto Kingston Road. Follow this over the tightly-rolling hills to a sharp left turn onto the 13 to Brookvale.

The Terrain

Did we say hilly? The hills can be short and steep or long and steep, too. The Argyle Shore itself is relatively flat, but open to the wind and the climb up through Bonshaw will set your quads burning. As for Brookvale, the doubletrack descents are fast and the singletrack ascents gruelling and technical. Generally, Brookvale’s doubletrack is made for hammering, while the single-track is tight, twisty and tricky.

Maps

For road, all you need is the PEI Provincial Road Map. Brookvale offers a map at the top of the ski hill, but it’s good to carry GPS. The trails wind back on each other and it’s easy to become disoriented.

Season

Road biking begins in April and continues until October. The shoulder seasons can offer stiff winds and rain, but the summer weather is impossibly lovely. Mountain biking starts in late May or early June as the red mud that makes up the island’s soil needs time to harden, but then can continue as late as January if the weather cooperates. Hard thaws make the ground tacky and create conditions for some of the best climbing ever.

Who Can Ride

Pretty much anyone can road bike on the island. The Argyle Shore loop is close to 80 km and is rolling and isolated at points, so cyclists should be prepared to be self-sufficient for things like repairs and food. Beyond that, it just takes a certain amount of grit to complete the ride. Brookvale offers everything from wide open doubletrack to singletrack that will test the wills of the strongest riders. All abilities will find a niche at the ski park.

Where to Ride

The Argyle Shore and Brookvale are hardly the only places on PEI to ride. Families looking for day trips can jump on the Confederation Trail, built on a former railway network, which begins in Charlottetown and is wide with moderate grades. Road biking abounds throughout the island. Another fine ride is out through the bedroom community of Stratford through Pownal, with a smaller loop out to China Point, before heading back on the TransCanada again. Like most road rides on the island, charming ocean views abound.

Mountain biking a bit trickier. The island offers many devilish single-track trails, but most cross private land and you won’t be riding them unless you befriend some island riders. The island’s six woodlots also have some fun if short loops.

Getting There

The most common way to reach the island these days is across the Confederation Bridge. It’s free to come over, but as Islanders are fond of saying, if you’re stupid enough to leave again then they’ll charge you a toll: $42.50 for cars or $8 for cyclists. In season, the ferry also crosses from Nova Scotia to Wood Island and for flights, Air Canada flies into Charlottetown.

Accommodation

Charlottetown offers everything from grand old hotels to bed and breakfasts with tons of character. Some options you might consider are the Rodd Charlottetown, conveniently located downtown; The Great George, a luxury inn; and the Holiday Inn Express.




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