Local Guide: Carter Nieuwesteeg in Fernie
Hometown guide to trails, tacos and nightlife in the East Kootenay mountains
Photo by:
Nick Nault
There are few more exciting ways to spend a weekend than traveling to a new town to ride bikes. Quickly figuring out the best trails, restaurants, and post-ride activities can be tricky, especially on a limited time frame. Unless you can find a local rider to show you around, of course.
Visiting Fernie, B.C. last year, I had the benefit of several local guides, all extremely friendly. These included hometown XC racer Carter Nieuwesteeg and photographer Nick Nault.
While the Kootenay’s will always be home, Nieuwesteeg spends his year traveling to race mountain bikes across the continent. From Canada Cups to stage races like Singletrack 6. This year, he was all set to bring the adventure home with the Fernie Gravel Grind (which has gone virtual for 2020). Nault lives in Fernie year-round, photographing mountain adventures on dirt or snow as the season suits.
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The pair teamed up, with Niewesteeg on words and Nault behind the lens, to share some of Fernie’s finest.
Must ride trails:
Hyper Ventilation (Castle Mountain)
Hyper Ventilation is the trail I ride if I want to make my legs hurt. It’s well known in Fernie for its dizzying number of switchbacks that ascend Castle Mountain starting from the valley bottom.
Hyper Vent will lead your tired legs and spinning head to the top of Castle Mountain overlooking all of Fernie. I can’t help but stop at my favourite lookout and take it all in. It’s a pretty calming feeling (after a not so calm climb) being able to take in views from that height. Calling it my happy place sounds weird, but at the top is where I often go if I need to feel grounded after being away racing for several weeks. It’s a pretty special spot for me and the hard climb and gnarly descent is just the icing on the cake.”
Lazy Lizard (Mount Fernie Provincial Park)
From Friday evening rips with the bros to Sunday morning family strider bike rides, this 8km machine-built flow trail is one I can take any visitors on for a Fernie trail tour and know they will enjoy it. It’s the only trail I’ve ever ridden that can be a blast for any level of rider. That is something really unique and I don’t think any other towns have a trail like that. Island Lake Lodge sits at the top of this expressway to flow, making for the perfect mid-ride burger and beer stop. From the Lodge, it’s all downhill back to town.
Mid-ride coffee: The Valley Social Company
The Valley Social Company is my first stop before starting my rides. It’s in the heart of downtown, so it’s a great place to meet buddies for rides or wait while my bike is getting that last-minute service. You’re never far from the trails in Fernie, so it’s almost too easy to stop for a mid-ride caffeine fix before heading back out into the woods.
Meals: Nevados
I’ve never been to Mexico, but if I had to guess how tacos taste from the motherland I would think they taste just like the ones from Nevados. This is my favourite restaurant in town by far. Its where I take family friends to pig out on delicious tacos, or go with close friends and drink tasty margaritas before a night of dancing next door at the Northern. Nevados is the spot to hang out with friends and family and eat great food, drink tasty beverages, and just have a good time.
Post-ride drinks: The Northern Bar & Stage
The Northern is the best place for post-ride drinks. My off-season rides always seem to end up there. Being able to share a pitcher of Fernie Beer with the bros, and eat a burger all while watching live music after a ride is my favourite type of post-ride cooldown. The Northern always has a great atmosphere, and it’s the only pub you’ll ever see with tens of thousands of dollars worth of bikes just sitting out front. It’s a ‘bikers’ place for post-ride drinks, and it’s pretty obvious.
Local brewery: Fernie Brewing Company
The Fernie Brewing Company is really something else. Anywhere I go people seem to know about the FBC and how good their brews are. Every can of theirs is related back to Fernie one way or another, and I get pretty passionate about trying to explain the ties their beer has to Fernie. My favorite is the Project 9 Pilsner, inspired by the iconic Project 9 trail in the provincial park. Fernie Brewing Company even has the ‘Trails to Ales” challenge which is what I always suggest to visitors if their up for a big day on the bike.
Local bike shop: Straight Line Bike and Ski
Straight Line Bike and Ski is my go-to shop in Fernie. They have been instrumental in my growth as a mountain bike racer, and just as a human being. Every single employee there is downright stoked about biking as it starts right at the top with Ian, the owner. Ian is the nicest and most passionate person around, he’s been a guy I’ve always looked up to and is an integral part of the community as a whole. So it’s no wonder why his shop reflects that same image. I can go on about this shop forever, but if one thing is for sure, if you are new to town looking for some help with anything bike related this is the place to go to. Just beware, you won’t be leaving without a firm high-5 and a newfound stoke for riding your bike.
Event of the summer: Wapiti Music Festival
I always try to make Wapiti Music Festival line up with the end of my race season. Its a weekend of maximum enjoyment of great indie music in the mountains that’s helping put Fernie summers on par with our reputation for winter skiing. Wapiti takes place in a park along the river at the foot of Mount Fernie, there’s dancing, great food, and Fernie Brewing Company on tap. What more could you want?
Best post-ride activity: Floating the Elk River
The first time I ever floated the Elk River was with my Dad after a bike ride, I was pretty young like 5 or 6. Going for floats with the family is often our best time together. Some families enjoy quality time by sitting around for a Sunday dinner, I think ours is floating the river on a hot day.
Usually, the first thing I ask visitors on a hot summer day is “Wanna go for a float?” Getting into those tubes bought from good old Canadian Tire is generally met with some alarm, at first – the Elk isn’t warm. But after a while the numbness in the buttocks and stunning views of the mountains make it a pretty amazing time.
