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Riding Historic Mont-Sainte-Anne

The historic city is home to an annual visit by the WorldTour, the UCI's top-level of road racing.

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Even on its own, Quebec City is a special place for cyclists. The historic city is home to an annual visit by the WorldTour, the UCI’s top-level of road racing. But a quick 35-minute trip on a road alongside the St. Lawrence Seaway takes you to Mont-Sainte-Anne, a year-round mountain resort in the tiny suburb of Beaupre, population 2,800.

I visit Quebec City as often as I can and recommend the area to friends and business associates. While I had skied Mont-Sainte-Anne, I wanted to see if the resort’s reputation for being a fantastic destination for mountain biking was accurate. What I quickly discovered was that the venue is even better than advertised.

With 625 m of vertical, Mont-Sainte-Anne is an incredible mountain and the resort’s owners are constantly pumping money into it. They want to solidify their reputation as the destination for all mountain bikers in the east – which isn’t hard to do considering they host a World Cup each year and have hosted two World Mountain Biking Championships – once in 1998 and once in 2010.

Mont-Sainte-Anne has three main sections: Downhill, Cross Country and Freeride. In each section, they’ve built trails that are accessible to beginners, intermediate or expert riders, and the result is a wide spectrum of customers. During my time on the mountain, I saw everyone from families with young kids on cross-country trails to professionals ripping down the World Cup downhill runs and even a few old fossils like myself sucking wind and loving life.

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CROSS COUNTRY

For cross-country riders, there are 130 km of buff trails with options for every level of rider. Six new trails were added for 2011 and one of my favourites was La Liberte 55 (Freedom 55). With its mix of terrain offering different challenges for different riders, you will find singletrack to suite your style.

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DOWNHILL

The Downhill trails are amazing and certainly world class. I tackled La 1837 and La Coupe du Monde (The World Cup) to fire up the morning. In the middle of it, I had an almost out-of-body experience and had to remind myself that I was 40-years-old. There are 28 km of downhill trails on the mountain, but it feels more like 280. The trails are gorgeous and you’ll think to yourself “I should stop and take a picture,” or “that would be a great place for a snack,” but it won’t happen. The hill pulls you in and your head feels  like it’s on a swivel as you consider your options of which trail to try next.

FREERIDE

An affable guide named Jean-Marc directed me to this new section. Two singletrack trails that total more than 9 km start at the top of the mountain and wind their way to the bottom. These trails are a mix of cross country and downhill and feature many exhilarating moments. You access these trails via the Gondola, which is a great ride in itself with amazing views and gives you a chance to fuel up before the run down the mountain. At the bottom of the mountain is an elevated pump track with well-groomed berms, camel bumps and jumps. There’s also a dirt jump track and a mini North Shore area with plenty of man-made obstacles.

Affordable Adrenaline

One of its biggest selling features is the price. Mont-Sainte-Anne is affordable with an unlimited pass available for less than $40 while a cross-country only pass is less than $13. Prices drop for juniors, families and if you arrive after 2 p.m.

If you need to rent a ride, cross-country hardtails are available for $45 per day while full-suspension downhill bikes cost $110. Elbow, knee and chest pads, as well as full-face helmets are also available for rent. Worth noting is the condition of the rental gear available at the resort. Sometimes rental bikes need a bit of TLC, but the bikes at Mont-Sainte-Anne were some of the cleanest and best-kept bikes I’ve ever seen. When I pointed this out to the rental guy, he just smiled and said “we want you to come back.” I likely will.

Getting there

Quebec City is well-served by three Canadian carriers operating from any of the major hubs across the country, as well as several U.S. cities daily. Mont-Sainte-Anne is about a 30-minute drive from downtown Quebec City.

Where to eat

The food in Quebec City is simply amazing. Everything is good, including the ‘Casse-Croutes’ along the highway for your poutine fix. The resort itself has numerous on-site restaurants and the prices are surprisingly fair. Your easiest bet for onsite noshing is The Rendez Vous at the base of the mountain or The Rond Point on the summit. Keep in mind that your can buy a six-pack or bottle of wine at the corner store for your hydration needs.

Where to stay

Mont-Sainte-Anne’s proximity to Quebec City means there are plenty of options for accommodations – from the luxurious Fairmont Chateau Frontenac, to smaller boutique hotels inside the walls of old Quebec. If you’re trying to make the trip more affordable, there are lots of camping options near the resort. From late May until mid-October, you can camp 7 km away from the mountain, where four people can share a comfortably-equipped camper for $25 per person complete with indoor and outdoor kitchens. Or, you can pitch a tent for $30 per night. There are also plenty of budget motels nearby in Beaupre.

If you go

Remember that in addition to award-winning biking on the mountain, Quebec City’s historical tours should not be missed. Rent headsets at kiosks along the boardwalk outside the Chateau Frontenac and pedal yourself through an audio tour while you keep your eyes on the St. Lawrence Seaway for the impending British invasion.

Dennis Moseley-Williams is a cyclist, skier and blogger who lives in Ottawa with his wife, daughter and dog. Sometimes they live deep in the woods. If you’re planning a trip, let him know. He’ll probably join you.