Rural roads run right to the water’s edge in Québec’s Bas-Saint-Laurent region, making the collection of towns and villages along the St. Lawrence River an idyllic destination for a week of cycling this summer. Explore the region’s parks, historical sites, and many delicious local dining options as you roll along country roads, across small islands and through the area’s many national parks.
Day 1: Circuit des Églantiers
Cities: La Pocatière – Kamouraska – Rivière-du-Loup
All along the Bas-Saint-Laurent region, the shores of the St. Lawrence River are lined with wild roses, or églantiers. Take your time to enjoy the scene as you ride from the village of Kamouraska along the river on Route 132. But first, stop at Boulangerie Niemand for fougasse, or bring a loaf of miche de Campagne along for a picnic on the route toward Saint-Philippe-de-Néri and Saint-Pascal. A stop at Chocolaterie La Fée Gourmand for delicious mid-ride snacks is also recommended. The route passes by heritage houses in Kamouraska’s west end before dropping down to the river to roll through fields.
As your path turns back south toward Saint-Germain, you will skirt around several monadnocks, which are rocky hills that make the Kamouraska lowlands scenery unique. The reward for your effort awaits at Poissonnerie Lauzier et Bistro de la Mer, where you can get a seafood dinner. Or head to Saint-André for a glass of La Pioche saison by the Microbrasserie Tête d’allumette. Relax next to the mighty St. Lawrence River.
For shorter out-and-back options from Kamouraska, ride to Rivière-du-Loup (78 km round-trip) or La Pocatière (62 km)
Day 2: Le Parc linéaire interprovincial Petit Témis
Cities: Rivière-du-Loup – Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac – Dégelis
Your second day in Bas-Saint-Laurent takes you away from light country traffic altogether as you cross the Témiscouata region along the dedicated cycle paths of Le Parc linéaire interprovincial Petit Témis. Starting from Rivière-du-Loup, the path follows and old railroad track across the Témiscouata region and extends for 134 km to New Brunswick. Stop at Fromagerie Le Détour, a local artisanal cheesemaker, to add to your lunch. You can enjoy it on the beaches along Témiscouata Lake, as you explore Fort Ingall, or on your ferry ride to Parc national du Lac-Témiscouata. From the town of Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac, a short ferry ride across the lake takes you to the Parc. There, your bike path follows the lakeshore southward to Saint-Juste-du-Lac where you can catch a return to Notre-Dame-du-Lac.
The terrain in Témiscouata makes for a more relaxed day in the saddle that some more experienced cyclists might expect, but the gentle terrain serves as an ideal warm-up for the hills to come later in your trip. If you’d like more time at this casual pace, there are various camping options along the bike path and in the parks to extend your stay overnight.
Day 3: Circuit Terre et Mer
Cities: Isle-Verte – Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Douleurs – Trois-Pistoles
As the name might suggest, Circuite Terre et Mer takes you from rural hills to the Bas-Saint-Laurent region’s maritime villages all in one ride. Leaving the town of Trois-Pistoles westward along Route 132, traverse a plateau before descending down to sea level along L’Isle-Verte Cove. A short ferry ride delivers you to Île Verte, where you will ride quiet roads covering the length of the island, and will see Lighthouse of île Verte which, built in 1809, is the oldest in Québec. After sailing back to the mainland, a gradual climb takes you to 2e rang, a gentle hilly rural road with little motor-vehicle traffic. Before you start your ride again, stop at Marché des Trois Fumoirs for the best smoked salmon you’ve ever experienced. The small shed on the side of the old highway doesn’t look like much, but it hides fridges and shelves packed with the smoke house’s freshest fish.
At the end of 2e rang East, head straight-ahead at the T-junction onto the unpaved bike path that winds through fields and woods before dropping down to the Trois-Pistoles River. A left turn onto Rue Du Sault brings you to the village of Rivière-Trois-Pistoles, part of the municipality of Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, where you can stop at Fromagerie des Basques for fuel for the remainder of your ride. Armed with fine artisanal Basque cheese and your Euskatel-Euskadi jersey, ride under Route 123 to Rue de la Grève, a surprisingly peaceful route right on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, before a bike path with occasional steep pitches links up with Chemin de la Plage, and your ride ends back at Trois-Pistoles by way of the municipal campground. If you’ve been keeping pace with Iban Mayo and Haimar Zubeldia, you’ll still have time for a late-day whale watching excursion in Rivière-du-Loup.
Day 4 & 5: Le Grand circuit maritime
Cities: Le Bic – Saint-Valérien – Rimouski – Sainte-Luce – Sainte-Flavie
Locals know best, so finish off your stay in Bas-Saint-Laurent region by riding a route popular amongst the area’s best cyclists. From downtown Rimouski, follow the bike path along the St. Lawrence River heading eastward. The route varies from paved bike paths to small roads and side streets following the shore as it winds through Site historique maritime de la Pointe-au-Père, with numerous places to stop for a rest on the beach of the charming village of Sainte-Luce.
If you stopped at Les Halles Saint-Germain, Rimouski’s sizable farmers market, to stock up on local snacks, you can enjoy your break on the seawall of Sainte-Luce before heading to Sainte-Flavie, the gateway to the Gaspésie region. You’ll want the rest as the route climbs from there toward Mont-Joli, a proper climb that features in Tour de la relève international de Rimouski each July. At the top, turn right after the roundabout to head west on Chemin Perrault, a quiet country road. A long false flat climb takes you to Saint-Anaclet-de-Lessard, where route de la Gare heads north to the St. Lawrence River before you follow a bike path and Rue du Fleuve all the way back to Rimouski.
If you still have the legs, or an extra day, and are looking for more climbing roads, ride the 69-km loop to Saint-Valérien and Saint-Fabien. For a more relaxing end to your stay in Bas-Saint-Laurent explore Parc national du Bic.
To Learn More about riding in Bas-Saint-Laurent region: here
