Lac Saint-Jean: Riding in the land of blueberries
Routes and trails of the Lac Saint-Jean region feature excellent riding and, often, excellent snacking
by Dean Campbell
While out riding the Tobo-ski trail network, we saw a young black bear about 200 m ahead of us. I was with Eric Maltais, the head trail builder of the routes near Saint-Félicien, Que., roughly 200 km north of Quebec City. He was showing me some of the more than 75 km of singletrack he had been developing for almost two decades. Earlier, we stopped to taste some wild blueberries. Later, we rested on one of the rounded mountain tops and looked east over Lac Saint-Jean in the summer sun. Then, there was that bear. We waited patiently before the animal wandered off down the hillside.
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Last July, I was in I was Saint-Félicien to cover the 2015 Canadian mountain bike championships, which ran on Maltais’s trails. The day after the competition, I went out solo to explore sections of the network Maltais and I had to skip on our previous ride. Gone was the blue sky and bright sun of that ride; it was replaced with the soft but unrelenting rain that featured in some of the championship races. I dropped tire pressures to compensate and soon found myself snaking over rocks and roots in what felt like a remote wilderness. Yet the map showed I was never more than a 5-km ride from the car. Be prepared for cool weather, even in the summer. Windy conditions and rain made for a crisp pedal.
After cleaning up, I traded knobbies for slicks. Ringing in the Land of Blueberries Routes and trails of the Lac Saint-Jean region feature excellent riding and, often, excellent snacking the lake is the Véloroute des Bleuets, a segment of the provincial Route Verte. The loop is named for the blueberries that are found everywhere – both at farming operations and wild along the side of the path if you look at the right time of year. In fact, blueberries are a common theme in the region; you can expect to find them in much of the local cuisine.
A mountain biker at heart, I found my enthusiasm for a road ride in the rain wasn’t particularly high. But, I realized I had underestimated what was on offer. The route is almost exclusively a smoothly paved pathway totally separate from road traffic, often going places where the highway couldn’t. With so many towns and villages ringing the lake, the route would be a perfect way to spend a leisurely weekend of riding from bakery to patio to beach before arriving at the accommodations of choice. For those who want to freewheel unencumbered, there are local shuttle services that will transport your luggage along your route. Although there are some hills, much of the route hugs close to the lake, and is generally easygoing.
On my final day in the region, I stopped off at a pub that was recommended for its delicious local food and beer. O’Soleil makes some incredible burgers, which pair well with local beers, including those by La Chouape. I also ordered a berry smoothie called the Hell Yeah, mostly so I could say, “Can I get a Hell Yeah?” If you’re feeling re-energized after the meal, grab your mountain bike and cross the road to dive into a few kilometres of fast and twisty trails.
Cycling in the region doesn’t stop when the snow falls. Thanks to the increasing popularity of fat bikes, there’s a winter race across the frozen surface of Lac SaintJean. The Bike Across the Lac Saint-Jean event features la grande traversée (32 km), randonnée boréale (15 km) and traversée populaire (10 km).
Details
How to get there
The Lac Saint-Jean region is easily accessed from Quebec City by car. Other transportation services do exist, but they aren’t always bike-friendly. Plan ahead.
When to go
The Lac Saint-Jean region is beautiful any time of year, but for warmer riding temperatures, aim for late spring to early fall. Weather can change quickly, so pack for cool days as well as warm, even in the summer months. If you’re after wild blueberries, early to mid-August is prime time.
Where to ride
Of the trails near Saint-Félicien maintained by the Vélo2Max club, La Chouape, Le Plateau, Les Crans, Descent des Anges and Descent du Diable are for those who like steep and technical routes over rock. Beginner-friendly routes include the picturesque Sentier de La rivière, and be sure to enjoy Le Ricochet and Le Slalom.
For paved adventures, the Route Verte website has good resources to start the planning process, but be sure to order the guidebook for the Véloroute des Bleuets for details on each section of the route, a directory of all services and sample itineraries to help fill in the details.
Where to stay
With so many towns ringing the lake, there are plenty of options for accommodations. As with the routes, check the Route Verte website and the Véloroute des Bleuets guidebook.
“I also ordered a berry smoothie called the Hell Yeah, mostly so I could say, ‘Can I get a Hell Yeah?’”
Things to do off-bike
At the Zoo Sauvage de Saint-Félicien, you’ll see a variety of animals native to the most northern parts of the world, including Siberia, Mongolia and, of course, Canada. If you are interested in nature and geology, check out Cristal du Lac. Visitors can mine – and keep – their own quartz crystals estimated to be thousands of years old. Family-run, the tour includes a guided interpretive walk to the dig site. If timing is right, sharp eyes will spot fresh blueberries along the trail. Just try to leave some for the next group.
