Mainlining the spirit of gravel at Fernie Gravel Grind

Usually, events take a few years to get off the ground. A few people show up, spread the word and a gathering slowly turns into a race. Fernie Gravel Grind is growing by leaps and bounds. Even after it’s first year was forced online by the pandemic, the the FGG’s third running boomed to an enthusiastic and loyal field of 500 rider, many returning for another go at the Rocky Mountain gravel route.

Where some events build a reputation for high-caliber competition, for a notoriously difficult or remote course, or for catering to riders on a near-luxury level, it is a strong sense of community that sets Fernie Gravel Grind apart. Whether locals or in town for the weekend, organisers quickly make every single rider – not just the pros – feel like part of the FGG community. It’s wildly scenic location in the Kootenay Rockies doesn’t hurt, either.

Fernie Gravel Grind weekend

After a few years of scheming to make the journey across B.C., I was finally able to join Fernie Gravel Grind’s third running. As mentioned, the gravel event/race is already drawing a field of 500 riders. Many are returning to the Rockies for a second, or third time and I was not the only one to have made the long drive from Vancouver Island. In the opposite direction, there was a heavy representation from Alberta and Saskatchewan returning to Fernie for the weekend as well as the men’s winner from way out east in Quebec.

The core of FGG is a gravel event. Timed, and with winners, but less of a focus on racing than many other events. There are different distances (long course, short course), but everyone leaves together and finishes in the same spot. That main point, though, also serves as a launching off point for a whole weekend of events. That all starts on Friday at registration where there’s a little race village and demo area 10 feet off of Fernie’s main drag, food trucks and a beer garden (complete with the welcome sight of Nonny, a non-alcoholic beer brand) and live music.

There’s still a race

The race day itself started in the most small town way possible. Just as Carter Nieuwesteeg, part of the small Anything Goes Events Series (AGES) organising team that puts on Fernie Gravel Grind, said go and riders started to roll under the Red Bull arch, a train rolled through town delaying the left hand turn across the tracks and into the wilderness. That gave some late riders the chance to reshuffle up the field and others a chance to relax the preface nerves. As the train tooted its departure we set off. What started as rolling, twisting gravel eventually turned into an extended climb up towards the peaks surrounding town. As the leaders rolled off the front, racers settled into groups for the long climb.

Glimpses of vistas turned into one, stunning section of wide open gravel, just sub-alpine towards the highest aid station and the turn around point (floods have temporarily forced FGG into an out-and-back format, though the course profile made it feel like less of one, somehow).

From there, each small group started a ripping descent back down towards town. Some time on the road on the climb built trust between racers so you could really enjoy the descent without any doubts of the abilities of those around you. Just as Fernie townsite appeared, the course took a sharp left back up towards the finish line in the Montane trail network. Any complaints from tired legs about a final climb were quickly erased by the crowds, refreshments and food station at what has to be one of the more picturesque finish lines in gravel racing.

The Community

It’s hard to say what stands out about the Fernie Gravel Grind. Some events are just so well put together that it seems so easy, or natural that you wonder how other organizers can’t pull off the same thing. But, behind the scenes, FGG’s brain trust puts a very concerted effort into building that atmosphere. That includes making a big effort to try get equal gender participation. Even with 500 racers in 2023, the split between men and women on the start line was nearly 50/50

“We had 42% female participation, which we are quite happy about. I thought that number would start to drop the larger the event got but it’s still holding strong,” Carter Nieuwesteeg told me after the event. “I think that number is a testament to the hard work we’ve put in to create space for female riders at our events. Besides that we donated $4,000 to Fernie Search and Rescue, $1,000 to Coal Creek Heritage Society (the trails we used at the finish), as well as brought to life the Launch! Youth Racing Grant.”

Nieuwesteeg also adds that their numbers show over 50 per cent of racers started riding within the last two years. Cycling, and especially racing, isn’t always as perfectly warm and welcoming a space as long-time riders like to think it is. That sort of stat shows FGG has succeeded in opening up an expansive and inclusive version of gravel that you will find at very few other events.

Mainling the Spirit of Gravel

All of this seems like it should be really easy. Have a party, host a race that is on a fun course, invite cool people and make all of them feel welcome, bring some bands. Why aren’t more people doing this? Who knows, but FGG organisers, AGES (Anything Goes Event Series) are doing it and doing it better than any race I can think of. I can’t think of many other events I’ve been to where a guy on flat pedals riding a gravel bike in sandals fit in so well in between very serious cyclists in team kit riding very nice bikes, bikepacking rigs, and several very cool 90s mountain bikes converted for drop-bar gravel glory.

Fernie Gravel Grind aims for a weekend-long event, starting with bands, food trucks and a beer garden (again, with Nonny serving up alternatives) and finishing with a properly-paced, no-drop social ride that ends with more live music. That surely helps make this more of an experience than a single-day race. Even if you don’t do the official group ride Sunday, there are all kinds of gravel and mountain bike trails (so many trails) to explore to fill out  your weekend.

Thanks to Tourism Fernie, I  stayed at the lovely Snow Valley Inn, just across the road from downtown. With rooms and several cool tiny homes for rent, it’s an easy and central base whether you’re travelling solo or like several other groups of racers staying there, with enjoying the hot tub with friends.

The Fernie difference?

I returned to Fernie a few weeks later with friends for the Singletrack 6 to experience the town’s extensive network of cross country trails. That same weekend, Fernie Alpine Resort hosted Canadian downhill nationals. The weekend of FGG was opening weekend for both FAR and Lizzard Lodge trails as well as a couple other events I can’t remember. For a small town, there always seems to be something going on, or a few things, every weekend. Maybe that kind of community enthusiasm is part of what makes Fernie Gravel Grind so successful. It’s a town where no one bats an eye at 50 riders rolling out for a group ride down main street on Sunday morning and where numerous locals who have no idea there’s a bike event going on are happy to follow the sound of live music and stay, hanging out until the band stops, or after.

If it sounds like I’m a little too keen on Fernie, I’ll definitely admit I have a crush on this little mountain town. Maybe it’s the mountains on all sides, maybe it’s that Fernie is big enough to have several amazing restaurants but not so big that it has lost its laid-back and welcoming vibes (or affordability to visit, relative to most more coastal mountain destinations). But if I’m biased, clearly I’m not alone. There were a surprising number of riders making the long drive out from Vancouver Island and the Sea to Sky to be in town for the Fernie Gravel Grind. One group, riding in matching party shirts, gets together every year for FGG and for FGG only.

So, if you’re thinking Fernie seems far to go for a gravel race, find someone that’s been to the event and they’ll tell you why its worth the drive. Maybe they’ll even want to carpool this coming July.

Registration for the 2024 Fernie Gravel Grind opens on December 15, 2023. The race takes place July 12-14, 2024. Dates for AGES other events, including the Cranbrook Gravel Grind in May, will be announced soon.